Have you ever wondered if you’re applying your skincare products in the right order?
If you’re applying expensive serums only to wonder why they’re not working their magic, the answer might lie not in what you’re using.
But how you’re layering them.
Skincare routines have become increasingly complex. What used to be a simple cleanse-tone-moisturise trio has evolved into an elaborate ritual involving multiple serums, essences, oils, and creams.
It’s no wonder many of us feel a bit lost!
Let’s walk you through the why and how of skincare layering, breaking down the science in a way that actually makes sense.
By the end of this guide, you’ll understand not only the correct order but also why it matters so much.
Why Does the Order of Application Matter?
The short answer? Molecular weight and absorption.
Think of your skin as a nightclub with a strict door policy. The smaller, more agile molecules get in first, while the larger ones have to wait their turn.
If you apply heavier products first, they create a barrier that prevents the lighter, often more active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
“Applying products in the wrong order is like wearing your jumper under your t-shirt. It just doesn’t work.”
The Basic Principle: Thinnest to Thickest
The golden rule of skincare layering is to apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency.
This approach ensures that each product has the best chance of being absorbed effectively.
Here’s why:
- Thinner products (like toners and serums) have smaller molecules that need to reach deeper layers of the skin
- Thicker products (like moisturisers and oils) have larger molecules designed to seal and protect the surface
- Applying thick products first creates a barrier that lighter products cannot penetrate
Your Step-by-Step Skincare Layering Guide
Let’s break down the optimal order for both morning and evening routines
Morning Routine ☀️
1. Cleanser
Start with a gentle cleanser to remove overnight sebum (your skins natural oil) and product residue. Your skincare won’t work nearly as well on dirty skin, so don’t skip this step, even if your skin feels clean.
2. Toner
Toners have come a long way from the alcohol heavy formulas of the past. Modern toners balance pH levels and prep the skin for the products to follow. Think of toners as the primer before painting, they can create the perfect canvas.
3. Essence (Optional)
Popular in Korean skincare routines, essences are lightweight hydrators that boost the effectiveness of subsequent products. They’re thinner than serums but more concentrated than toners, a good middle ground.
4. Eye Cream (Optional, can also be applied after serum)
The skin around your eyes is delicate and often shows signs of ageing first. Some prefer applying eye cream before serums to create a protective buffer, while others apply it after. Go with what works for you, but consistency is key.
5. Serum
Serums contain concentrated active ingredients targeting specific concerns, think vitamin C for brightening, hyaluronic acid for hydration, or niacinamide for pore refinement.
Morning serums should focus on protection (antioxidants like vitamin C) rather than repair (like retinol, which is better saved for evening).
6. Moisturiser
Moisturisers seal in the goodness of your serums while providing hydration and creating a smooth base for makeup. They also act as a barrier, protecting your skin from the environment. We have a guide on selecting the right moisturiser for your skin type.
7. Face Oil (Optional)
If you have dry skin, a few drops of facial oil can provide an extra layer of nourishment. Oils are occlusive, meaning they lock everything in.
8. Sunscreen (An always!)
Always finish with SPF in the morning. Sunscreen is your most important anti-ageing product, protecting against both UV damage and hyperpigmentation. And yes, you need it even on cloudy days or when staying indoors. Moisturisers can come with added SPF, we have an article on selecting the right SPF moisturiser.
Evening Routine 🌙
1. Cleanser (Double cleanse if wearing makeup or sunscreen)
Start with an oil-based cleanser to break down makeup, sunscreen, and sebum, then follow with a water-based cleanser to remove any residue. This ensures your skin is truly clean and ready to receive treatments.
2. Exfoliant (2-3 times per week)
Chemical exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs, or enzymes) remove dead skin cells and clear pores. They help serums penetrate more effectively by removing the barrier of dead skin cells. Remember: exfoliation is not a daily requirement!
3. Toner
Just like in your morning routine, toner rebalances the skin’s pH and prepares it for the next steps.
4. Essence (Optional)
As with your morning routine, an essence adds an extra layer of hydration.
5. Treatments/Serums
Evening is the time for repair serums like retinol, peptides, or more intensive treatments. This is when your skin naturally regenerates, so it’s the perfect opportunity to support that process.
Be careful mixing active ingredients, some combinations (like retinol and AHAs, or vitamin C and niacinamide) can either neutralise each other or cause irritation.
6. Eye Cream
Again, apply before or after your serum, depending on preference.
7. Moisturiser
Evening moisturisers are often richer than day formulas, providing intensive hydration while you sleep.
8. Face Oil (Optional)
A few drops of oil can be particularly beneficial at night, especially for dry skin.
9. Overnight Mask or Occlusive (Optional, 1-2 times per week)
For an intensive treatment, apply an overnight mask or occlusive balm as the final step to seal everything in.
The Science Behind Absorption
Now for the nerdy bit that actually explains why all this matters!
Your skin has multiple layers, and different ingredients target different depths:
- The stratum corneum (outermost layer) can be penetrated by most skincare ingredients
- The epidermis (middle layer) is reached by smaller molecules like certain peptides and antioxidants
- The dermis (deepest layer) is only accessible to the tiniest molecules, like some forms of vitamin C. We have a guide to the use of vitamin C and how to implement its use within your skincare routine.
Product formulations are designed with these barriers in mind. Water-based serums are formulated to penetrate deeper, while oil-based products typically work on the surface.
The pH of products also matters. Acids (like glycolic or salicylic) work best at a low pH, while enzymes require a more neutral environment. This is another reason why layering in the correct order helps maximise the efficacy of each product.
Common Skincare Layering Mistakes to Avoid
- Applying products too quickly Give each product time to absorb—about 30-60 seconds between layers is ideal. Patience pays off!
- Using too many active ingredients at once More isn’t always better. Using multiple potent actives can overwhelm your skin barrier and lead to irritation. Streamline your routine to focus on what your skin truly needs.
- Mixing incompatible ingredients Some ingredients don’t play well together:
- Retinol + AHAs/BHAs = Can cause irritation
- Vitamin C + Niacinamide = Potential neutralisation (though newer formulations have reduced this issue)
- Benzoyl Peroxide + Retinol = Deactivation of both ingredients
- Applying sunscreen under moisturiser Sunscreen should always be your final skincare step in the morning (before makeup). Applying moisturiser over sunscreen can dilute its protection.
- Not adjusting your routine to your skin’s needs Your skin’s needs change with seasons, hormones, and age. Be prepared to adjust your layering strategy accordingly. What works in winter might be too heavy for summer.
Simplifying Your Routine: When Less Is More
While a 10-step routine works for some, others might find their skin reacts better to a minimalist approach. The key is to focus on quality over quantity.
A stripped-back but effective routine might include:
- Cleanser
- Treatment serum targeting your main concern
- Moisturiser
- Sunscreen (morning only)
This foundation can be expanded based on your skin’s specific needs.
The art of layering skincare isn’t about using every product on the market—it’s about applying what you do use in a way that maximises benefits while minimising waste and irritation.
Remember that consistency trumps complexity. A simple routine followed faithfully will yield better results than an elaborate regime used sporadically.
Think of skincare layering as making a sandwich, the order of ingredients matters if you want it to hold together properly and taste its best. You wouldn’t put butter on top of the cheese, would you?
Listen to your skin, adjust as needed, and enjoy the process. After all, those few minutes of self-care might be the most peaceful part of your day, and the results are well worth the effort.